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Boxes whose corners are whatever angle you like — odd triangles, quads, L-shapes, slots and chamfered outlines, 3–10 corners. Drag every corner, get invisible finger joints where the angle allows, a step joint around outside and inside corners that aren't right angles, and an exact read-out of the leftover gap where it can't close. Kerf-compensated SVG & DXF. All dimensions in millimetres.
Typical 0.08–0.15. Set 0 for a loose, easy-glue fit.
Approximate — adjusted to fit each edge evenly.
Thin stock hides the corner gap: the leftover gap at a sharp corner is thickness × cot(angle), so 2 mm material has two-thirds the gap of 3 mm.
3 · Corner joints
Corners within this of 90° get invisible interlocking fingers.
0 = automatic (about one band per 10 mm of height).
A flat-bed laser can only cut square-ended walls — a true mitre needs a bevelled cut through the thickness, which a laser can't make.
So at every corner that isn't a right angle the generator cuts the closest possible joint and tells you the leftover gap:
sharper than 90° leaves a V-gap of t × cot(angle) at the outer corner (glue it, or use thinner stock);
wider than 90° closes completely with a step joint. Inside (concave) corners — an L, a slot, a notch — close with the
same step joint seen from the other side: the wall arriving at the corner runs on past it and the other wall is set back to meet it.
At exactly 90° that is a t overrun; the shallower the corner, the longer the overrun, so it is capped at
2 × t. Any corner can be overridden per corner in the table above.
4 · Box
The base (and lid) sit inside the wall ring, flush with the bottom (and top), with its tabs dropping into notches in the walls. Walls are numbered W1, W2… in the direction you drew them.
5 · Generate
SVG uses real mm units with 0.1 mm red hairlines — drop straight into LightBurn / RDWorks / K40 Whisperer.
DXF is R12 line entities: layer CUT for the cut lines, layer ENGRAVE for the dovetail detail.
The dovetail detail is engraving, not a cut — magenta lines in the SVG, layer ENGRAVE in the DXF. Score them at low power and the corner joints still read as dovetails once the box is together. Switch it off above if you'd rather not.
Every wall carries the corner joint at both ends, so wall ends mustn't be shortened by hand.
Cut one test corner in scrap first if the angle is sharper than about 60° — thin slivers of wood are fragile.
Inside corners (an L, slot or notch) are fine: the wall that arrives runs past the corner and the next wall is set back to meet it exactly, so nothing has to be cut by hand.
Labels in the preview are preview-only and never exported.